Spring Vegetables?
I came up to Massachusetts for the summer a little over 2 weeks ago. It’s a big shift changing houses and merging lives. I’ve gone from busy, bustling Intown ATL to a village founded in 1670 without a stop sign on Main Street, much less a traffic light. It’s a lot to manage, but you know what? It’s been absolutely wonderful.
Last weekend we were able to work in the garden. One of the many aspects that New England is different from the South is the climate. Oddly enough, the one piece of life that seems to move slower up North in summer is the weather. (It was 92° yesterday in Atlanta and yesterday I wore sweatpants and a fleece “hoodie” in Massachusetts!)
In addition to fending off slightly derisive remarks about my thin blood from Yankee family and friends, this also makes for big changes in the garden. The weather makes it all topsy-turvy to someone who has only ever gardened in the subtropical Deep South. For example, there may be peaches in Georgia, but in Massachusetts we’ve yet to trim the garlic scapes, our tomatoes are just beginning to flower, and I’m still thinning carrots. Lastly, what we would consider a spring crop in the South like strawberries or asparagus is a summer crop up North.
The Pioneer Valley is famous for asparagus. My grandmother, Meme, liked what she called “Asparagus Salad” but there wasn’t anything to preparing it other than opening the familiar shiny silver can. And, even though I know the flavor of canned asparagus cannot compare to freshly cooked asparagus, I truly relish that taste memory.
Confession: I actually like canned asparagus.
Bigger confession: I never really liked fresh asparagus.
Well, I always thought it was just okay. I can’t think of any vegetable that I aggressively dislike. I’ve always considered asparagus to be an overrated, snobby vegetable that is most often served with dishes such bland beef tenderloin or over-cooked salmon at catered events or so-called “fancy” restaurants. Asparagus has always been ubiquitous and seemingly season-less. Then, on top of that, I found myself in several life situations where I began to associate fresh asparagus with a couple of certain people and it put a bad taste in my mouth. It’s amazing and powerful how food can evoke such strong, visceral feelings, both intensely positive as well as negative.
Well, I’ve now fallen in love with it.
Of course, asparagus has a real season. Perspective makes all the difference in the world. We’ve been eating it every last meal – breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I stop at a little farm stand off the main road on the way home from my daily visit to town. The farmer has a small shaded table at the end of the driveway. There’s an old yellow lab with a grey muzzle that sits under a tree nearby. He’s sat there for so many years he’s worn the grass away and he rests on a dark, uneven circle of dirt. He gives me a “woof” and thumps his tail a few times. I smile at him and tell him he’s a good boy. There’s an unattended cash box with a handwritten sign that reads $4 and a collection of plastic bags from various grocery stores there for the taking, if you need one. The whole experience speaks of more simple times and makes me smile from the inside out. Now, one of the things I disliked the most brings me pure joy.
I hope you enjoy these simple recipes as much as we do.
Bon Appétit Y’all!
VA
Simple Asparagus
Serves 4 to 6
Asparagus is a member of the Lily family and the spears grow from a crown that is planted about a foot deep in sandy soil. It’s harvested in the spring and it’s amazing to see – the spears literally grow straight out of the earth. The first time I saw this was at the beautiful kitchen gardens at Jefferson’s Monticello. When shopping for asparagus look for firm, fresh, spears with closed, compact tips and uniform diameter, so that all spears will cook in the same amount of time.
1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ teaspoon Piment d’Espelette
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the broiler. Spread out the asparagus spears in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with a nonstick silicone baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and shake the pan to evenly coat the spears. Season with Piment d’Espelette, salt, and pepper. Broil until the spears are just tender, 4 minutes for thin and up to 10 minutes for thick asparagus. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve hot, warm, or cold.
Asparagus with Fresh Mozzarella
Serves 4
The ends of fresh asparagus can be tough and woody. I prefer to slice off the last inch or so of the stem instead of snapping it off where the spear breaks naturally. Not only is it more visually appealing when all the spears are exactly the same size, but they will also cook at the same rate of speed. You can also trim the end then shave the tough bottom skin off with a vegetable peeler.
1 pound asparagus, ends trimmed
2 tablespoons garlic oil (I’m in LOVE with Boyajian garlic oil) or olive oil
1 slice country bread, torn into bits
1-2 balls fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the broiler. Spread out the asparagus spears in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with a nonstick silicone baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of garlic oil and shake the pan to evenly coat the spears. Season with salt and pepper. Divide into 4 equal portions on the baking sheet. Set aside.
Heat the 1 tablespoon of remaining garlic oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in a small skillet over medium high heat. Add the bread bits and season with salt and pepper. Cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.
Broil until the spears are just tender, 4 minutes for thin and up to 10 minutes for thick asparagus. In the last few minutes of cooking, top each individual bundle with a slice of mozzarella. Return to the broiler and cook until melted and bubbly, about 2 minutes, depending on the strength of your broiler. Transfer the bundles to warm plates. Sprinkle over toasted bread and red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.
Please be nice. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without permission is prohibited. Feel free to excerpt and link, just give credit where credit is due and send folks to my website, virginiawillis.com. Thanks so much.
Copyright © 2013 Virginia Willis Culinary Enterprises, Inc.
Photo credits – Virginia Willis
I love fresh asparagus but I’m guilty, too, of liking ‘canned’ asparagus. My grandmother served it cold with a tomato vinaigrette, I could eat the entire dish by myself!
Enjoy the cool springtime weather!
Tell me more about the cold tomato vinaigrette! Thanks for reading!
Hi Virginia!
It kind of came about one summer when I had a BUMPER crop of cherry tomatoes. I just make a French Vinaigrette using a good red wine vinegar, mild olive oil and finely chopped tomatoes, let it macereate for a few hours and yummy! It doesn’t store well so eat it up! (Shallots, Dijon mustard, Pink Sea Salt and a grind of pepper too) add some fresh herbs if you have them.
My Grandmother just used her homemade red wine vinegar and vegetable oil with fresh herbs (I dressed it up a bit when I started cooking)
It is so nice to be reading your posts when you’re up here in my neck of the woods. I can relate to what you’re writing about and I’m sure I’ll learn somethings too!
I really love the area. I love being in the country. Thanks so much for reading. I’m very thankful. Best VA
I worked at a farm stand in CT growing up and always loved asparagus season. I do peel mine though. I would eat them all day, 1lb. is just enough for me. Enjoy your lovely summer.
I cannot believe how sandy it is!!! Thanks so much for reading. I really appreciate it. Best VA
Guilty, too. I like canned asparagus. As a teenager, I ate it warm with layers of American cheese. Fresh asparagus was an acquired taste, but I love it.
Writing this little piece made me so happy!
I loved my mother’s recipe for canned asparagus, cheddar cheese soup and of course Ritz crackers on top. Baked to what I thought was perfection, bubbly and brown. Mom was a genius in the kitchen as far as I was concerned. She still is and thank goodness in good health! Virginia, thank you for bringing back great memories of good times in the kitchen with family. I am not sure the food was that good but in my mind it was perfection! Have fun up there but don’t stay gone too long, we miss you!
What a neat story. Living in a new place is always a great adventure, provided you make it that. It looks like you are. Your photography is fabulous.
Thanks sweet Pam!
Dear Virginia,
I grew up on a farm and in spring we harvested tons of asparagus. However I hated the croping (backache) I still love asparagus even raw.
It makes me a kind of sad you prefere the canned variety.
Maybe you can give it try again, try it raw chopped with a dressing, grilled, sauted in butter, hushed with a bearnaise or hollandaise, salad with chives and hard boiled egg…….
I guess you have even more recipes!
Sincerely, Irmtraud
No, I like them both, now. I just had to taste freshly harvested. They each have their place. Thanks so much for reading.
Best VA
I have some good friends I love to visit in the Pioneer Valley! It really is idyllic in the summer and the farm stands are great! Enjoy the respite from the stultifying Southern humidity!
I just love it – I call it Happy Valley!;)
I just love your style and how you approach food, Virginia. Your cookbook is lovely — glorious simplicity. You’re such a winner and I enjoyed witnessing how unintimiated you are — what an advantage. Ecstatic and looking forward to following you and enjoying the way you continously execute brillianty… Your new fan @TamTheTasteMkr at SpicySEOTips.com